阮兰德客栈的重生享有好评和成功

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传奇的餐馆可以重生吗?这是阮兰德酒店面临的问题,由克雷格·谢尔顿——也许最著名的著名的新泽西的厨师。

“这是一个属性,日食我们伟大国家的所有其他国家一样,”安东尼Bucco说,新的行政总厨,负责的任务在谢尔顿长长的阴影。事实上,厨师的掌门人新泽西的许多顶级餐厅首先是通过这个厨房,其中斯科特安德森的元素,罗瑞拉的Humberto坎波斯,和詹姆斯Laird的餐馆小夜曲。

在2007年关闭,阮兰德酒店于2012年10月在新管理层重新开业。从那时起,它享有好评,受欢迎的成功,为其食品和敏感的转换的怀特豪斯站的丘陵中具有里程碑意义的空间。

37岁的Bucco形容他的烹饪风格“微妙的细化,从心脏。”Compared to Shelton's, he says, "it's more familiar, less challenging – refined but not pretentious." He likens the Ryland's contemporary American cuisine to the offspring of a marriage between Restaurant Nicholas ("which can play it safe") and elements ("which is avant-garde"). "The Cretellas [the Ryland Inn's new owners] have allowed me a lot of personal expression," he says.

这是因为珍妮和弗兰克•Cretella跟踪Bucco多年的职业生涯,他记住了从一开始的工作。“我们知道我们买了阮兰德,”珍妮Cretella说的第一招。“叫我们的父母之后,我们的下一个电话是安东尼。他带来的一切。这是他对烹饪的热情加上他如何与客人和员工,房子的前面和后面。他紧张,他所做的有趣的事,他想成长业务。”

Bucco阮兰德他的工作说“相似之处我的个人技能。”A graduate of the New York Restaurant School, his first break came in 2003 at Stage Left in New Brunswick, where he was executive chef for five years. "That," he tells me, "is where I learned how to work with the strengths and weaknesses of your team. There, I went from boy to man." He left Stage Left to take on the role of opening chef at Uproot in Warren, where he created an ambitious, innovative menu that he characterizes as "East Village in Central Jersey." At Uproot, Bucco says, he then went "from man to artist." But while offerings such as elk tartare crostini and black cod in grapefruit broth went over well with critics and foodies, the local clientele wanted something less challenging.

在餐厅拉图在汉堡,Bucco说,“我发现你可以700万美元的酒窖,但好客和位置填充你的餐厅也起到一定的作用。”At the Ryland, he points out, "We're located off the beaten path, so we could easily get pigeonholed as a special-occasion place. But we want to be a Tuesday-night place as well. We aim to give a product that people enjoy and come back to again and again."

这就是为什么,除了主菜像有机爱尔兰鲑鱼配黑松露,每晚菜单提供了一个灵活的菜,包括周二的烙印吊架牛排和周五的虹鳟鱼含有杏仁的。”阮兰德,”Bucco继续说,“我已经从艺术家厨师的角色。我一直有机会带着丰富的财产烹饪卓越的历史,这是我想离开我的个人遗产。”

Bucco的美食,而可辨认的,也是最新的和复杂的,采用现代烹饪技术的微妙而令人兴奋的方式。对我来说,特别是一盘完全进化,就说明了他的烹饪。在凯瑟琳Lombardi舞台左侧的妹妹餐厅,他的招牌甜点之一是chocolatehazelnut -咖啡面包布丁搭配英式奶油一道菜我想那么完美,我要求配方,多年来一直复制它。嗯,chocolate-espresso面包布丁也出现在阮兰德菜单上。直到现在,它把可可碎仁和焦糖和健壮,顶部设有蜜饯,芹菜,芹菜根冰淇淋。

当然,厨房只是魔法的一部分,是传奇阮兰德客栈——空间一样受人尊敬的食物。设置在十Hunterdon县田园英亩,它强调马球起源于一个标志性建筑,显得优雅和豪华的国家的魅力。“这建筑经历了两个世纪的款待,”Bucco说。“它始建于1794年,开始作为一个公共马车停下来。”That legacy was interrupted in 2007, after the combination of a burst water pipe, a slowing economy, and other factors led to the closure and subsequent foreclosure of the inn. The space sat idle, untended, for four years until the Cretellas bought it.

当时他收到Cretallas做菜的电话,Bucco汉密尔顿在私人农场高尔夫俱乐部。“我欢迎弗兰克的电话和机会张开双臂,“Bucco回忆说,“和签约电话!访问该网站开始。我看见一个冷,脏,发霉的残骸。但弗兰克有能力看到的潜力;他有一个愿景。该项目是具有挑战性和令人兴奋的对我们所有人。我认为我们已经非常敏感的空间。”

工作Cretellas改造的主题是“让人想起过去承认未来。”From the outside, the inn remains as recognizable as ever. A long white portico has been gracefully tacked on to its gleaming white facade, with patios added at the rear. Key changes to the interior include raising the formerly low ceilings to vaulted heights in the bar and dining rooms, and to cathedral height in the chef 's dining room. There's a shiny new kitchen. The beautiful Ryland bar was extended and restored to its former gleaming glory. Place settings that incorporate sepia photos of the old inn and equestrian-themed artwork on the walls pay homage to the Ryland's past, as do luxuriant touches like extra-plush white table linens and silver coffee services. Together, they conjure for me the essence of what it felt like to dine there in the glory days.

另一个遗留的原始阮兰德菜园——1990年代泽西餐馆场景的新奇。有机花园顺利被完全恢复。去年春天,开始为厨房提供豌豆、旱金莲、草药等red-veined栗色和青铜茴香。樱桃,桃子和梨在树上的小果园之后不久。计划正在进行水培操作Cretellas术语“农场”,将厨房与生菜和新鲜香草全年供应。

最大的生理变化中心被称为“好客校园。”Hospitality is a key word for the Cretellas, whose other holdings include Liberty House in Jersey City and Stone House at Stirling Ridge in Warren, both of which combine à la carte restaurants with upscale event venues. That is their plan for the Ryland as well. September will see the first weddings and other celebrations held in a new, 6,000-square-foot reception space that's attached to but sealed off from the restaurant. "With dancing, it will accommodate around 250 people," Jeanne Cretella reports. Bucco will also be overseeing all catering and banquet-food operations. "We have a pretty aggressive calendar already in place for September," he says, "but the business is ready for this first expansion."

好客的最后阶段校园将纳入一个新的宴会设施为由,帐篷就是馆王在克雷格·谢尔顿的领导下。“这是两个事件的更大空间,”珍妮Cretella说。“这不会附着在阮兰德并将有自己的单独的代客下降。空间都是非常私人彼此。”The last components of the plan are to erect a small hotel of about 40 rooms and to renovate the property's barn, transforming it into a state-of-the-art conference center.

阮兰德客栈,一旦一个休息的地方疲惫的驿站马车旅行者在美国的早期,然后新泽西州最认为餐厅,准备改造自己至少出现一次。

“我们开始袭击了我们的脚步,Bucco说。“有人在业务告诉我需要五年的时间建立一个品牌。在某种程度上,我们的品牌是200岁。但与此同时,我们建立一个新的业务生成一个新的标识。”