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墨西哥卷饼店的猪肉卷饼

通过/摄影 | 2017年4月21日
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胡里奥·马丁内斯(Julio Martinez)为你点了一份墨西哥卷饼:他热情地微笑着,拿起所需的玉米饼,然后离开,这很奇怪,因为他所有的食材都装在你面前的罐头里。你在那里,他在那里,所有用来做你的猪肉卷饼的材料……你正看着它呢。在街角闲逛是怎么回事?别着急,我们会讲到的。用这多出来的时间在心里准备你的玉米煎饼,因为如果我在你后面,我不希望你占用一整天的时间。需要的建议吗?不要错过内部腌制的jalapeños,它们就在翡翠绿的molcajete酱的旁边,这也是必备品。这款由火烤番茄、大蒜、洋葱和香菜制成的酱汁就像北湖的微风一样明亮、干净、新鲜。隔壁是另外两家酱料店。 The jalapeño sauce is similar in ingredients except it’s boiled rather than fire roasted and, with the addition of jalapeños, turns the topping into something I refer to as a “Hitchcock” sauce—you know there’s something lurking in the background (in this case, heat), you just have to wait for when and where it’s gonna pounce (spoiler alert: about seven seconds after swallow, in the back of your throat). Julio simply refers to option #3 as “hot sauce”, which is more hand grenade than Hitchcock, and packs a heck of a caliente kick, which I pass on for my creation, but if you don’t mind a mini-Mexican lava flow down your gullet, sample a sip. The hot sauce delivers as much flavor as it does heat, which derives from walnuts, peanuts, Ritz crackers, tortilla chips, jalapeños, habanero chili pepper and Chile de árbol—all fried in garlic and blended. If heat is your thing, you’ll love it, but you might want to mellow things out with a dollop of Julio’s mother’s cheese sauce, which is a creamy blend of American, queso fresco and Monterey Jack. But all heat aside, there are many fresh and authentic ingredients to chose among to make any burrito lover a happy amigo. Vegetarians can load up on chunks of fresh avocado, beans and rice, salsa fresca and pickled veggies, while meat lovers can also enjoy steak or chicken, which are marinated in a fresh salsa and garlic, keeping things tender and sweet. But if you want my two pesos, the oversized pulled pork burrito ($9.00) is the highlight of this hidden take-out place. The pork butt is marinated in jalapeños, garlic, onion, cinnamon, cumin and adobo powder, and then slow cooked for a couple of hours. “These kinds of things I never hurry,” Julio tells me. Speaking of no hurry, I ask Julio, a Veracruz native, why he takes each tortilla for a walk. “If you want it just right,” he explains, “you have to burn a bit of the tortilla on an open flame. You’ll taste the flavors more.” Indeed, not only does this tiny gesture add the perfect texture and smokiness to the burrito, it shows what kind of talent and passion can be hidden in the back of a little general store.

墨西哥卷饼(位于马斯顿斯磨坊现货市场后面)
马斯顿米尔斯149号公路105号
星期一至六上午十一时至下午六时(夏季至晚上八时)
外卖或场外餐饮请致电508-360-1485

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